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ONE EVENING OF LATE SUMMER, BEFORE THE N INETEENTH CENTURY HAD REACHED ONE-THIRD OF ITS SPAN, A YOUNG MAN AND WOMAN, THE LATTER CARRYING A CHILD, WERE APPROACHIN G THE LARGE VILLAGE OF WEYDON-PRIORS, IN UPPER WESSEX, ON FOOT. THEY WERE PLAINL Y BUT NOT ILL CLAD, THOUGH THE THICK HOA R OF DUST WHICH HAD ACCUMULATED ON THEIR SHOES AND GARMENTS FROM AN OBVIOUSLY LO NG JOURNEY LENT A DISADVANTAGEOUS SHABBI NESS TO THEIR APPEARANCE JUST NOW. THE M AN WAS OF FINE FIGURE, SWARTHY, AND STER N IN ASPECT; AND HE SHOWED IN PROFILE A FACIAL ANGLE SO SLIGHTLY INCLINED AS TO BE ALMOST PERPENDICULAR. HE WORE A SHORT JACKET OF BROWN CORDUROY, NEWER THAN TH E REMAINDER OF HIS SUIT, WHICH WAS A FUS TIAN WAISTCOAT WITH WHITE HORN BUTTONS, BREECHES OF THE SAME, TANNED LEGGINGS, A ND A STRAW HAT OVERLAID WITH BLACK GLAZE D CANVAS. AT HIS BACK HE CARRIED BY A LO OPED STRAP A RUSH BASKET, FROM WHICH PRO TRUDED AT ONE END THE CRUTCH OF A HAY-KN IFE, A WIMBLE FOR HAY-BONDS BEING ALSO V ISIBLE IN THE APERTURE. HIS MEASURED, SP RINGLESS WALK WAS THE WALK OF THE SKILLE D COUNTRYMAN AS DISTINCT FROM THE DESULT ORY SHAMBLE OF THE GENERAL LABOURER; WHI LE IN THE TURN AND PLANT OF EACH FOOT TH ERE WAS, FURTHER, A DOGGED AND CYNICAL I NDIFFERENCE PERSONAL TO HIMSELF, SHOWING ITS PRESENCE EVEN IN THE REGULARLY INTE RCHANGING FUSTIAN FOLDS, NOW IN THE LEFT LEG, NOW IN THE RIGHT, AS HE PACED ALON G. WHAT WAS REALLY PECULIAR, HOWEVER, IN THIS COUPLE'S PROGRESS, AND WOULD HAVE ATTRACTED THE ATTENTION OF ANY CASUAL OB SERVER OTHERWISE DISPOSED TO OVERLOOK TH EM, WAS THE PERFECT SILENCE THEY PRESERV ED. THEY WALKED SIDE BY SIDE IN SUCH A W AY AS TO SUGGEST AFAR OFF THE LOW, EASY, CONFIDENTIAL CHAT OF PEOPLE FULL OF REC IPROCITY; BUT ON CLOSER VIEW IT COULD BE DISCERNED THAT THE MAN WAS READING, OR PRETENDING TO READ, A BALLAD SHEET WHICH HE KEPT BEFORE HIS EYES WITH SOME DIFFI CULTY BY THE HAND THAT WAS PASSED THROUG H THE BASKET STRAP. WHETHER THIS APPAREN T CAUSE WERE THE REAL CAUSE, OR WHETHER IT WERE AN ASSUMED ONE TO ESCAPE AN INTE RCOURSE THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN IRKSOME TO HIM, NOBODY BUT HIMSELF COULD HAVE SAID PRECISELY; BUT HIS TACITURNITY WAS UNBRO KEN, AND THE WOMAN ENJOYED NO SOCIETY WH ATEVER FROM HIS PRESENCE. VIRTUALLY SHE WALKED THE HIGHWAY ALONE, SAVE FOR THE C HILD SHE BORE. SOMETIMES THE MAN'S BENT ELBOW ALMOST TOUCHED HER SHOULDER, FOR S HE KEPT AS CLOSE TO HIS SIDE AS WAS POSS IBLE WITHOUT ACTUAL CONTACT, BUT SHE SEE MED TO HAVE NO IDEA OF TAKING HIS ARM, N OR HE OF OFFERING IT; AND FAR FROM EXHIB ITING SURPRISE AT HIS IGNORING SILENCE S HE APPEARED TO RECEIVE IT AS A NATURAL T HING. IF ANY WORD AT ALL WERE UTTERED BY THE LITTLE GROUP, IT WAS AN OCCASIONAL WHISPER OF THE WOMAN TO THE CHILD-A TINY GIRL IN SHORT CLOTHES AND BLUE BOOTS OF KNITTED YARN-AND THE MURMURED BABBLE OF THE CHILD IN REPLY. THE CHIEF-ALMOST TH E ONLY-ATTRACTION OF THE YOUNG WOMAN'S F ACE WAS ITS MOBILITY. WHEN SHE LOOKED DO WN SIDEWAYS TO THE GIRL SHE BECAME PRETT Y, AND EVEN HANDSOME, PARTICULARLY THAT IN THE ACTION HER FEATURES CAUGHT SLANTW ISE THE RAYS OF THE STRONGLY COLOURED SU N, WHICH MADE TRANSPARENCIES OF HER EYEL IDS AND NOSTRILS AND SET FIRE ON HER LIP S. WHEN SHE PLODDED ON IN THE SHADE OF T HE HEDGE, SILENTLY THINKING, SHE HAD THE HARD, HALF-APATHETIC EXPRESSION OF ONE WHO DEEMS ANYTHING POSSIBLE AT THE HANDS OF TIME AND CHANCE EXCEPT, PERHAPS, FAI R PLAY. THE FIRST PHASE WAS THE WORK OF NATURE, THE SECOND PROBABLY OF CIVILIZAT ION. THAT THE MAN AND WOMAN WERE HUSBAND AND WIFE, AND THE PARENTS OF THE GIRL I N ARMS THERE COULD BE LITTLE DOUBT. NO O THER THAN SUCH RELATIONSHIP WOULD HAVE A CCOUNTED FOR THE ATMOSPHERE OF STALE FAM ILIARITY WHICH THE TRIO CARRIED ALONG WI TH THEM LIKE A NIMBUS AS THEY MOVED DOWN THE ROAD. THE WIFE MOSTLY KEPT HER EYES FIXED AHEAD, THOUGH WITH LITTLE INTERES T-THE SCENE FOR THAT MATTER BEING ONE TH AT MIGHT HAVE BEEN MATCHED AT ALMOST ANY SPOT IN ANY COUNTY IN ENGLAND AT THIS T IME OF THE YEAR; A ROAD NEITHER STRAIGHT NOR CROOKED, NEITHER LEVEL NOR HILLY, B ORDERED BY HEDGES, TREES, AND OTHER VEGE TATION, WHICH HAD ENTERED THE BLACKENED- GREEN STAGE OF COLOUR THAT THE DOOMED LE AVES PASS THROUGH ON THEIR WAY TO DINGY, AND YELLOW, AND RED. THE GRASSY MARGIN OF THE BANK, AND THE NEAREST HEDGEROW BO UGHS, WERE POWDERED BY THE DUST THAT HAD BEEN STIRRED OVER THEM BY HASTY VEHICLE S, THE SAME DUST AS IT LAY ON THE ROAD D EADENING THEIR FOOTFALLS LIKE A CARPET; AND THIS, WITH THE AFORESAID TOTAL ABSEN CE OF CONVERSATION, ALLOWED EVERY EXTRAN EOUS SOUND TO BE HEARD. FOR A LONG TIME THERE WAS NONE, BEYOND THE VOICE OF A WE AK BIRD SINGING A TRITE OLD EVENING SONG THAT MIGHT DOUBTLESS HAVE BEEN HEARD ON THE HILL AT THE SAME HOUR, AND WITH THE SELF-SAME TRILLS, QUAVERS, AND BREVES, AT ANY SUNSET OF THAT SEASON FOR CENTURI ES UNTOLD. BUT AS THEY APPROACHED THE VI LLAGE SUNDRY DISTANT SHOUTS AND RATTLES REACHED THEIR EARS FROM SOME ELEVATED SP OT IN THAT DIRECTION, AS YET SCREENED FR OM VIEW BY FOLIAGE. WHEN THE OUTLYING HO USES OF WEYDON- PRIORS COULD JUST BE DES CRIBED, THE FAMILY GROUP WAS MET BY A TU RNIP-HOER WITH HIS HOE ON HIS SHOULDER, AND HIS DINNER- BAG SUSPENDED FROM IT. T HE READER PROMPTLY GLANCED UP. 'ANY TRAD E DOING HERE?' HE ASKED PHLEGMATICALLY, DESIGNATING THE VILLAGE IN HIS VAN BY A WAVE OF THE BROADSHEET. AND THINKING THE LABOURER DID NOT UNDERSTAND HIM, HE ADD ED, 'ANYTHING IN THE HAY-TRUSSING LINE?' THE TURNIP-HOER HAD ALREADY BEGUN SHAKI NG HIS HEAD. 'WHY, SAVE THE MAN, WHAT WI SDOM'S IN HIM THAT 'A SHOULD COME TO WEY DON FOR A JOB OF THAT SORT THIS TIME O' YEAR?' 'THEN IS THERE ANY HOUSE TO LET-A LITTLE SMALL NEW COTTAGE JUST A BUILDED , OR SUCH LIKE?' ASKED THE OTHER. THE PE SSIMIST STILL MAINTAINED A NEGATIVE. 'PU LLING DOWN IS MORE THE NATER OF WEYDON. THERE WERE FIVE HOUSES CLEARED AWAY LAST YEAR, AND THREE THIS; AND THE VOLK NOWH ERE TO GO- NO, NOT SO MUCH AS A THATCHED HURDLE; THAT'S THE WAY O' WEYDON-PRIORS .' THE HAY-TRUSSER, WHICH HE OBVIOUSLY W AS, NODDED WITH SOME SUPERCILIOUSNESS. L OOKING TOWARDS THE VILLAGE, HE CONTINUED , 'THERE IS SOMETHING GOING ON HERE, HOW EVER, IS THERE NOT?' 'AY. 'TIS FAIR DAY. THOUGH WHAT YOU HEAR NOW IS LITTLE MORE THAN THE CLATTER AND SCURRY OF GETTING AWAY THE MONEY O' CHILDREN AND FOOLS, FO R THE REAL BUSINESS IS DONE EARLIER THAN THIS. I'VE BEEN WORKING WITHIN SOUND O' T ALL DAY, BUT I DIDN'T GO UP-NOT I. 'TW AS NO BUSINESS OF MINE.' THE TRUSSER AND HIS FAMILY PROCEEDED ON THEIR WAY, AND SOON ENTERED THE FAIR-FIELD, WHICH SHOWE D STANDING-PLACES AND PENS WHERE MANY HU NDREDS OF HORSES AND SHEEP HAD BEEN EXHI BITED AND SOLD IN THE FORENOON, BUT WERE NOW IN GREAT PART TAKEN AWAY. AT PRESEN T, AS THEIR INFORMANT HAD OBSERVED, BUT LITTLE REAL BUSINESS REMAINED ON HAND, T HE CHIEF BEING THE SALE BY AUCTION OF A FEW INFERIOR ANIMALS, THAT COULD NOT OTH ERWISE BE DISPOSED OF, AND HAD BEEN ABSO LUTELY REFUSED BY THE BETTER CLASS OF TR ADERS, WHO CAME AND WENT EARLY. YET THE CROWD WAS DENSER NOW THAN DURING THE MOR NING HOURS, THE FRIVOLOUS CONTINGENT OF VISITORS, INCLUDING JOURNEYMEN OUT FOR A HOLIDAY, A STRAY SOLDIER OR TWO COME ON FURLOUGH, VILLAGE SHOPKEEPERS, AND THE LIKE, HAVING LATTERLY FLOCKED IN; PERSON S WHOSE ACTIVITIES FOUND A CONGENIAL FIE LD AMONG THE PEEP-SHOWS, TOY-STANDS, WAX WORKS, INSPIRED MONSTERS, DISINTERESTED MEDICAL MEN WHO TRAVELLED FOR THE PUBLIC GOOD, THIMBLE-RIGGERS, NICK-NACK VENDOR S, AND READERS OF FATE. NEITHER OF OUR P EDESTRIANS HAD MUCH HEART FOR THESE THIN GS, AND THEY LOOKED AROUND FOR A REFRESH MENT TENT AMONG THE MANY WHICH DOTTED TH E DOWN. TWO, WHICH STOOD NEAREST TO THEM IN THE OCHREOUS HAZE OF EXPIRING SUNLIG HT, SEEMED ALMOST EQUALLY INVITING. ONE WAS FORMED OF NEW, MILK-HUED CANVAS, AND BORE RED FLAGS ON ITS SUMMIT; IT ANNOUN CED 'GOOD HOME- BREWED BEER, ALE, AND CY DER.' THE OTHER WAS LESS NEW; A LITTLE I RON STOVE-PIPE CAME OUT OF IT AT THE BAC K AND IN FRONT APPEARED THE PLACARD, 'GO OD FURMITY SOLD HEAR.' THE MAN MENTALLY WEIGHED THE TWO INSCRIPTIONS AND INCLINE D TO THE FORMER TENT. 'NO-NO-THE OTHER O NE,' SAID THE WOMAN. 'I ALWAYS LIKE FURM ITY; AND SO DOES ELIZABETH-JANE; AND SO WILL YOU. IT IS NOURISHING AFTER A LONG HARD DAY.' 'I'VE NEVER TASTED IT,' SAID THE MAN. HOWEVER, HE GAVE WAY TO HER REP RESENTATIONS, AND THEY ENTERED THE FURMI TY BOOTH FORTHWITH. A RATHER NUMEROUS CO MPANY APPEARED WITHIN, SEATED AT THE LON G NARROW TABLES THAT RAN DOWN THE TENT O N EACH SIDE. AT THE UPPER END STOOD A ST OVE, CONTAINING A CHARCOAL FIRE, OVER WH ICH HUNG A LARGE THREE-LEGGED CROCK, SUF FICIENTLY POLISHED ROUND THE RIM TO SHOW THAT IT WAS MADE OF BELL- METAL. A HAGG ISH CREATURE OF ABOUT FIFTY PRESIDED, IN A WHITE APRON, WHICH AS IT THREW AN AIR OF RESPECTABILITY OVER HER AS FAR AS IT EXTENDED, WAS MADE SO WIDE AS TO REACH NEARLY ROUND HER WAIST. SHE SLOWLY STIRR ED THE CONTENTS OF THE POT. THE DULL SCR APE OF HER LARGE SPOON WAS AUDIBLE THROU GHOUT THE TENT AS SHE THUS KEPT FROM BUR NING THE MIXTURE OF CORN IN THE GRAIN,	SEPTEMBER 15TH. THIS ARCHIPELAGO CONSIST S OF TEN PRINCIPAL ISLANDS, OF WHICH FIV E EXCEED THE OTHERS IN SIZE. THEY ARE SI TUATED UNDER THE EQUATOR, AND BETWEEN FI VE AND SIX HUNDRED MILES WESTWARD OF THE COAST OF AMERICA. THEY ARE ALL FORMED O F VOLCANIC ROCKS; A FEW FRAGMENTS OF GRA NITE CURIOUSLY GLAZED AND ALTERED BY THE HEAT, CAN HARDLY BE CONSIDERED AS AN EX CEPTION. SOME OF THE CRATERS, SURMOUNTIN G THE LARGER ISLANDS, ARE OF IMMENSE SIZ E, AND THEY RISE TO A HEIGHT OF BETWEEN THREE AND FOUR THOUSAND FEET. THEIR FLAN KS ARE STUDDED BY INNUMERABLE SMALLER OR IFICES. I SCARCELY HESITATE TO AFFIRM, T HAT THERE MUST BE IN THE WHOLE ARCHIPELA GO AT LEAST TWO THOUSAND CRATERS. THESE CONSIST EITHER OF LAVA OR SCORIAE, OR OF FINELY- STRATIFIED, SANDSTONE-LIKE TUFF . MOST OF THE LATTER ARE BEAUTIFULLY SYM METRICAL; THEY OWE THEIR ORIGIN TO ERUPT IONS OF VOLCANIC MUD WITHOUT ANY LAVA: I T IS A REMARKABLE CIRCUMSTANCE THAT EVER Y ONE OF THE TWENTY-EIGHT TUFF-CRATERS W HICH WERE EXAMINED, HAD THEIR SOUTHERN S IDES EITHER MUCH LOWER THAN THE OTHER SI DES, OR QUITE BROKEN DOWN AND REMOVED. A S ALL THESE CRATERS APPARENTLY HAVE BEEN FORMED WHEN STANDING IN THE SEA, AND AS THE WAVES FROM THE TRADE WIND AND THE S WELL FROM THE OPEN PACIFIC HERE UNITE TH EIR FORCES ON THE SOUTHERN COASTS OF ALL THE ISLANDS, THIS SINGULAR UNIFORMITY I N THE BROKEN STATE OF THE CRATERS, COMPO SED OF THE SOFT AND YIELDING TUFF, IS EA SILY EXPLAINED. CONSIDERING THAT THESE I SLANDS ARE PLACED DIRECTLY UNDER THE EQU ATOR, THE CLIMATE IS FAR FROM BEING EXCE SSIVELY HOT; THIS SEEMS CHIEFLY CAUSED B Y THE SINGULARLY LOW TEMPERATURE OF THE SURROUNDING WATER, BROUGHT HERE BY THE G REAT SOUTHERN POLAR CURRENT. EXCEPTING D URING ONE SHORT SEASON, VERY LITTLE RAIN FALLS, AND EVEN THEN IT IS IRREGULAR; B UT THE CLOUDS GENERALLY HANG LOW. HENCE, WHILST THE LOWER PARTS OF THE ISLANDS A RE VERY STERILE, THE UPPER PARTS, AT A H EIGHT OF A THOUSAND FEET AND UPWARDS, PO SSESS A DAMP CLIMATE AND A TOLERABLY LUX URIANT VEGETATION. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TH E CASE ON THE WINDWARD SIDES OF THE ISLA NDS, WHICH FIRST RECEIVE AND CONDENSE TH E MOISTURE FROM THE ATMOSPHERE. IN THE M ORNING (17TH) WE LANDED ON CHATHAM ISLAN D, WHICH, LIKE THE OTHERS, RISES WITH A TAME AND ROUNDED OUTLINE, BROKEN HERE AN D THERE BY SCATTERED HILLOCKS, THE REMAI NS OF FORMER CRATERS. NOTHING COULD BE L ESS INVITING THAN THE FIRST APPEARANCE. A BROKEN FIELD OF BLACK BASALTIC LAVA, T HROWN INTO THE MOST RUGGED WAVES, AND CR OSSED BY GREAT FISSURES, IS EVERYWHERE C OVERED BY STUNTED, SUN-BURNT BRUSHWOOD, WHICH SHOWS LITTLE SIGNS OF LIFE. THE DR Y AND PARCHED SURFACE, BEING HEATED BY T HE NOON-DAY SUN, GAVE TO THE AIR A CLOSE AND SULTRY FEELING, LIKE THAT FROM A ST OVE: WE FANCIED EVEN THAT THE BUSHES SME LT UNPLEASANTLY. ALTHOUGH I DILIGENTLY T RIED TO COLLECT AS MANY PLANTS AS POSSIB LE, I SUCCEEDED IN GETTING VERY FEW; AND SUCH WRETCHED-LOOKING LITTLE WEEDS WOUL D HAVE BETTER BECOME AN ARCTIC THAN AN E QUATORIAL FLORA. THE BRUSHWOOD APPEARS, FROM A SHORT DISTANCE, AS LEAFLESS AS OU R TREES DURING WINTER; AND IT WAS SOME T IME BEFORE I DISCOVERED THAT NOT ONLY AL MOST EVERY PLANT WAS NOW IN FULL LEAF, B UT THAT THE GREATER NUMBER WERE IN FLOWE R. THE COMMONEST BUSH IS ONE OF THE EUPH ORBIACEAE: AN ACACIA AND A GREAT ODD-LOO KING CACTUS ARE THE ONLY TREES WHICH AFF ORD ANY SHADE. AFTER THE SEASON OF HEAVY RAINS, THE ISLANDS ARE SAID TO APPEAR F OR A SHORT TIME PARTIALLY GREEN. THE VOL CANIC ISLAND OF FERNANDO NORONHA, PLACED IN MANY RESPECTS UNDER NEARLY SIMILAR C ONDITIONS, IS THE ONLY OTHER COUNTRY WHE RE I HAVE SEEN A VEGETATION AT ALL LIKE THIS OF THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS. THE BEAGL E SAILED ROUND CHATHAM ISLAND, AND ANCHO RED IN SEVERAL BAYS. ONE NIGHT I SLEPT O N SHORE ON A PART OF THE ISLAND, WHERE B LACK TRUNCATED CONES WERE EXTRAORDINARIL Y NUMEROUS: FROM ONE SMALL EMINENCE I CO UNTED SIXTY OF THEM, ALL SURMOUNTED BY C RATERS MORE OR LESS PERFECT. THE GREATER NUMBER CONSISTED MERELY OF A RING OF RE D SCORIAE OR SLAGS, CEMENTED TOGETHER: A ND THEIR HEIGHT ABOVE THE PLAIN OF LAVA WAS NOT MORE THAN FROM FIFTY TO A HUNDRE D FEET; NONE HAD BEEN VERY LATELY ACTIVE . THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THIS PART OF THE ISLAND SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN PERMEATED, LI KE A SIEVE, BY THE SUBTERRANEAN VAPOURS: HERE AND THERE THE LAVA, WHILST SOFT, H AS BEEN BLOWN INTO GREAT BUBBLES; AND IN OTHER PARTS, THE TOPS OF CAVERNS SIMILA RLY FORMED HAVE FALLEN IN, LEAVING CIRCU LAR PITS WITH STEEP SIDES. FROM THE REGU LAR FORM OF THE MANY CRATERS, THEY GAVE TO THE COUNTRY AN ARTIFICIAL APPEARANCE, WHICH VIVIDLY REMINDED ME OF THOSE PART S OF STAFFORDSHIRE, WHERE THE GREAT IRON -FOUNDRIES ARE MOST NUMEROUS. THE DAY WA S GLOWING HOT, AND THE SCRAMBLING OVER T HE ROUGH SURFACE AND THROUGH THE INTRICA TE THICKETS, WAS VERY FATIGUING; BUT I W AS WELL REPAID BY THE STRANGE CYCLOPEAN SCENE. AS I WAS WALKING ALONG I MET TWO LARGE TORTOISES, EACH OF WHICH MUST HAVE WEIGHED AT LEAST TWO HUNDRED POUNDS: ON E WAS EATING A PIECE OF CACTUS, AND AS I APPROACHED, IT STARED AT ME AND SLOWLY WALKED AWAY; THE OTHER GAVE A DEEP HISS, AND DREW IN ITS HEAD. THESE HUGE REPTIL ES, SURROUNDED BY THE BLACK LAVA, THE LE AFLESS SHRUBS, AND LARGE CACTI, SEEMED T O MY FANCY LIKE SOME ANTEDILUVIAN ANIMAL S. THE FEW DULL- COLOURED BIRDS CARED NO MORE FOR ME THAN THEY DID FOR THE GREAT TORTOISES. SEPTEMBER 23RD. THE BEAGLE P ROCEEDED TO CHARLES ISLAND. THIS ARCHIPE LAGO HAS LONG BEEN FREQUENTED, FIRST BY THE BUCANIERS, AND LATTERLY BY WHALERS, BUT IT IS ONLY WITHIN THE LAST SIX YEARS , THAT A SMALL COLONY HAS BEEN ESTABLISH ED HERE. THE INHABITANTS ARE BETWEEN TWO AND THREE HUNDRED IN NUMBER; THEY ARE N EARLY ALL PEOPLE OF COLOUR, WHO HAVE BEE N BANISHED FOR POLITICAL CRIMES FROM THE REPUBLIC OF THE EQUATOR, OF WHICH QUITO IS THE CAPITAL. THE SETTLEMENT IS PLACE D ABOUT FOUR AND A HALF MILES INLAND, AN D AT A HEIGHT PROBABLY OF A THOUSAND FEE T. IN THE FIRST PART OF THE ROAD WE PASS ED THROUGH LEAFLESS THICKETS, AS IN CHAT HAM ISLAND. HIGHER UP, THE WOODS GRADUAL LY BECAME GREENER; AND AS SOON AS WE CRO SSED THE RIDGE OF THE ISLAND, WE WERE CO OLED BY A FINE SOUTHERLY BREEZE, AND OUR SIGHT REFRESHED BY A GREEN AND THRIVING VEGETATION. IN THIS UPPER REGION COARSE GRASSES AND FERNS ABOUND; BUT THERE ARE NO TREE-FERNS: I SAW NOWHERE ANY MEMBER OF THE PALM FAMILY, WHICH IS THE MORE S INGULAR, AS 360 MILES NORTHWARD, COCOS I SLAND TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE NUMBER OF COCOA-NUTS. THE HOUSES ARE IRREGULARLY S CATTERED OVER A FLAT SPACE OF GROUND, WH ICH IS CULTIVATED WITH SWEET POTATOES AN D BANANAS. IT WILL NOT EASILY BE IMAGINE D HOW PLEASANT THE SIGHT OF BLACK MUD WA S TO US, AFTER HAVING BEEN SO LONG, ACCU STOMED TO THE PARCHED SOIL OF PERU AND N ORTHERN CHILE. THE INHABITANTS, ALTHOUGH COMPLAINING OF POVERTY, OBTAIN, WITHOUT MUCH TROUBLE, THE MEANS OF SUBSISTENCE. IN THE WOODS THERE ARE MANY WILD PIGS A ND GOATS; BUT THE STAPLE ARTICLE OF ANIM AL FOOD IS SUPPLIED BY THE TORTOISES. TH EIR NUMBERS HAVE OF COURSE BEEN GREATLY REDUCED IN THIS ISLAND, BUT THE PEOPLE Y ET COUNT ON TWO DAYS' HUNTING GIVING THE M FOOD FOR THE REST OF THE WEEK. IT IS S AID THAT FORMERLY SINGLE VESSELS HAVE TA KEN AWAY AS MANY AS SEVEN HUNDRED, AND T HAT THE SHIP'S COMPANY OF A FRIGATE SOME YEARS SINCE BROUGHT DOWN IN ONE DAY TWO HUNDRED TORTOISES TO THE BEACH. SEPTEMB ER 29TH. WE DOUBLED THE SOUTH-WEST EXTRE MITY OF ALBEMARLE ISLAND, AND THE NEXT D AY WERE NEARLY BECALMED BETWEEN IT AND N ARBOROUGH ISLAND. BOTH ARE COVERED WITH IMMENSE DELUGES OF BLACK NAKED LAVA, WHI CH HAVE FLOWED EITHER OVER THE RIMS OF T HE GREAT CALDRONS, LIKE PITCH OVER THE R IM OF A POT IN WHICH IT HAS BEEN BOILED, OR HAVE BURST FORTH FROM SMALLER ORIFIC ES ON THE FLANKS; IN THEIR DESCENT THEY HAVE SPREAD OVER MILES OF THE SEA-COAST. ON BOTH OF THESE ISLANDS, ERUPTIONS ARE KNOWN TO HAVE TAKEN PLACE; AND IN ALBEM ARLE, WE SAW A SMALL JET OF SMOKE CURLIN G FROM THE SUMMIT OF ONE OF THE GREAT CR ATERS. IN THE EVENING WE ANCHORED IN BAN K'S COVE, IN ALBEMARLE ISLAND. THE NEXT MORNING I WENT OUT WALKING. TO THE SOUTH OF THE BROKEN TUFF-CRATER, IN WHICH THE BEAGLE WAS ANCHORED, THERE WAS ANOTHER BEAUTIFULLY SYMMETRICAL ONE OF AN ELLIPT IC FORM; ITS LONGER AXIS WAS A LITTLE LE SS THAN A MILE, AND ITS DEPTH ABOUT 500 FEET. AT ITS BOTTOM THERE WAS A SHALLOW LAKE, IN THE MIDDLE OF WHICH A TINY CRAT ER FORMED AN ISLET. THE DAY WAS OVERPOWE RINGLY HOT, AND THE LAKE LOOKED CLEAR AN D BLUE: I HURRIED DOWN THE CINDERY SLOPE , AND, CHOKED WITH DUST, EAGERLY TASTED THE WATER BUT, TO MY SORROW, I FOUND IT SALT AS BRINE. THE ROCKS ON THE COAST AB OUNDED WITH GREAT BLACK LIZARDS, BETWEEN THREE AND FOUR FEET LONG; AND ON THE HI LLS, AN UGLY YELLOWISH-BROWN SPECIES WAS EQUALLY COMMON. WE SAW MANY OF THIS LAT TER KIND, SOME CLUMSILY RUNNING OUT OF T HE WAY, AND OTHERS SHUFFLING INTO THEIR BURROWS. I SHALL PRESENTLY DESCRIBE IN M ORE DETAIL THE HABITS OF BOTH THESE REPT ILES. THE WHOLE OF THIS NORTHERN PART OF ALBEMARLE ISLAND IS MISERABLY STERILE.

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plaintext-2

ONE EVENING OF LATE SUMMER, BEFORE THE N
INETEENTH CENTURY HAD REACHED ONE-THIRD
OF ITS SPAN, A YOUNG MAN AND WOMAN, THE
LATTER CARRYING A CHILD, WERE APPROACHIN
G THE LARGE VILLAGE OF WEYDON-PRIORS, IN
UPPER WESSEX, ON FOOT. THEY WERE PLAINL
Y BUT NOT ILL CLAD, THOUGH THE THICK HOA
R OF DUST WHICH HAD ACCUMULATED ON THEIR
SHOES AND GARMENTS FROM AN OBVIOUSLY LO
NG JOURNEY LENT A DISADVANTAGEOUS SHABBI
NESS TO THEIR APPEARANCE JUST NOW. THE M
AN WAS OF FINE FIGURE, SWARTHY, AND STER
N IN ASPECT; AND HE SHOWED IN PROFILE A
FACIAL ANGLE SO SLIGHTLY INCLINED AS TO
BE ALMOST PERPENDICULAR. HE WORE A SHORT
JACKET OF BROWN CORDUROY, NEWER THAN TH
E REMAINDER OF HIS SUIT, WHICH WAS A FUS
TIAN WAISTCOAT WITH WHITE HORN BUTTONS,
BREECHES OF THE SAME, TANNED LEGGINGS, A
ND A STRAW HAT OVERLAID WITH BLACK GLAZE
D CANVAS. AT HIS BACK HE CARRIED BY A LO
OPED STRAP A RUSH BASKET, FROM WHICH PRO
TRUDED AT ONE END THE CRUTCH OF A HAY-KN
IFE, A WIMBLE FOR HAY-BONDS BEING ALSO V
ISIBLE IN THE APERTURE. HIS MEASURED, SP
RINGLESS WALK WAS THE WALK OF THE SKILLE
D COUNTRYMAN AS DISTINCT FROM THE DESULT
ORY SHAMBLE OF THE GENERAL LABOURER; WHI
LE IN THE TURN AND PLANT OF EACH FOOT TH
ERE WAS, FURTHER, A DOGGED AND CYNICAL I
NDIFFERENCE PERSONAL TO HIMSELF, SHOWING
ITS PRESENCE EVEN IN THE REGULARLY INTE
RCHANGING FUSTIAN FOLDS, NOW IN THE LEFT
LEG, NOW IN THE RIGHT, AS HE PACED ALON
G. WHAT WAS REALLY PECULIAR, HOWEVER, IN
THIS COUPLE'S PROGRESS, AND WOULD HAVE
ATTRACTED THE ATTENTION OF ANY CASUAL OB
SERVER OTHERWISE DISPOSED TO OVERLOOK TH
EM, WAS THE PERFECT SILENCE THEY PRESERV
ED. THEY WALKED SIDE BY SIDE IN SUCH A W
AY AS TO SUGGEST AFAR OFF THE LOW, EASY,
CONFIDENTIAL CHAT OF PEOPLE FULL OF REC
IPROCITY; BUT ON CLOSER VIEW IT COULD BE
DISCERNED THAT THE MAN WAS READING, OR
PRETENDING TO READ, A BALLAD SHEET WHICH
HE KEPT BEFORE HIS EYES WITH SOME DIFFI
CULTY BY THE HAND THAT WAS PASSED THROUG
H THE BASKET STRAP. WHETHER THIS APPAREN
T CAUSE WERE THE REAL CAUSE, OR WHETHER
IT WERE AN ASSUMED ONE TO ESCAPE AN INTE
RCOURSE THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN IRKSOME TO
HIM, NOBODY BUT HIMSELF COULD HAVE SAID
PRECISELY; BUT HIS TACITURNITY WAS UNBRO
KEN, AND THE WOMAN ENJOYED NO SOCIETY WH
ATEVER FROM HIS PRESENCE. VIRTUALLY SHE
WALKED THE HIGHWAY ALONE, SAVE FOR THE C
HILD SHE BORE. SOMETIMES THE MAN'S BENT
ELBOW ALMOST TOUCHED HER SHOULDER, FOR S
HE KEPT AS CLOSE TO HIS SIDE AS WAS POSS
IBLE WITHOUT ACTUAL CONTACT, BUT SHE SEE
MED TO HAVE NO IDEA OF TAKING HIS ARM, N
OR HE OF OFFERING IT; AND FAR FROM EXHIB
ITING SURPRISE AT HIS IGNORING SILENCE S
HE APPEARED TO RECEIVE IT AS A NATURAL T
HING. IF ANY WORD AT ALL WERE UTTERED BY
THE LITTLE GROUP, IT WAS AN OCCASIONAL
WHISPER OF THE WOMAN TO THE CHILD-A TINY
GIRL IN SHORT CLOTHES AND BLUE BOOTS OF
KNITTED YARN-AND THE MURMURED BABBLE OF
THE CHILD IN REPLY. THE CHIEF-ALMOST TH
E ONLY-ATTRACTION OF THE YOUNG WOMAN'S F
ACE WAS ITS MOBILITY. WHEN SHE LOOKED DO
WN SIDEWAYS TO THE GIRL SHE BECAME PRETT
Y, AND EVEN HANDSOME, PARTICULARLY THAT
IN THE ACTION HER FEATURES CAUGHT SLANTW
ISE THE RAYS OF THE STRONGLY COLOURED SU
N, WHICH MADE TRANSPARENCIES OF HER EYEL
IDS AND NOSTRILS AND SET FIRE ON HER LIP
S. WHEN SHE PLODDED ON IN THE SHADE OF T
HE HEDGE, SILENTLY THINKING, SHE HAD THE
HARD, HALF-APATHETIC EXPRESSION OF ONE
WHO DEEMS ANYTHING POSSIBLE AT THE HANDS
OF TIME AND CHANCE EXCEPT, PERHAPS, FAI
R PLAY. THE FIRST PHASE WAS THE WORK OF
NATURE, THE SECOND PROBABLY OF CIVILIZAT
ION. THAT THE MAN AND WOMAN WERE HUSBAND
AND WIFE, AND THE PARENTS OF THE GIRL I
N ARMS THERE COULD BE LITTLE DOUBT. NO O
THER THAN SUCH RELATIONSHIP WOULD HAVE A
CCOUNTED FOR THE ATMOSPHERE OF STALE FAM
ILIARITY WHICH THE TRIO CARRIED ALONG WI
TH THEM LIKE A NIMBUS AS THEY MOVED DOWN
THE ROAD. THE WIFE MOSTLY KEPT HER EYES
FIXED AHEAD, THOUGH WITH LITTLE INTERES
T-THE SCENE FOR THAT MATTER BEING ONE TH
AT MIGHT HAVE BEEN MATCHED AT ALMOST ANY
SPOT IN ANY COUNTY IN ENGLAND AT THIS T
IME OF THE YEAR; A ROAD NEITHER STRAIGHT
NOR CROOKED, NEITHER LEVEL NOR HILLY, B
ORDERED BY HEDGES, TREES, AND OTHER VEGE
TATION, WHICH HAD ENTERED THE BLACKENED-
GREEN STAGE OF COLOUR THAT THE DOOMED LE
AVES PASS THROUGH ON THEIR WAY TO DINGY,
AND YELLOW, AND RED. THE GRASSY MARGIN
OF THE BANK, AND THE NEAREST HEDGEROW BO
UGHS, WERE POWDERED BY THE DUST THAT HAD
BEEN STIRRED OVER THEM BY HASTY VEHICLE
S, THE SAME DUST AS IT LAY ON THE ROAD D
EADENING THEIR FOOTFALLS LIKE A CARPET;
AND THIS, WITH THE AFORESAID TOTAL ABSEN
CE OF CONVERSATION, ALLOWED EVERY EXTRAN
EOUS SOUND TO BE HEARD. FOR A LONG TIME
THERE WAS NONE, BEYOND THE VOICE OF A WE
AK BIRD SINGING A TRITE OLD EVENING SONG
THAT MIGHT DOUBTLESS HAVE BEEN HEARD ON
THE HILL AT THE SAME HOUR, AND WITH THE
SELF-SAME TRILLS, QUAVERS, AND BREVES,
AT ANY SUNSET OF THAT SEASON FOR CENTURI
ES UNTOLD. BUT AS THEY APPROACHED THE VI
LLAGE SUNDRY DISTANT SHOUTS AND RATTLES
REACHED THEIR EARS FROM SOME ELEVATED SP
OT IN THAT DIRECTION, AS YET SCREENED FR
OM VIEW BY FOLIAGE. WHEN THE OUTLYING HO
USES OF WEYDON- PRIORS COULD JUST BE DES
CRIBED, THE FAMILY GROUP WAS MET BY A TU
RNIP-HOER WITH HIS HOE ON HIS SHOULDER,
AND HIS DINNER- BAG SUSPENDED FROM IT. T
HE READER PROMPTLY GLANCED UP. 'ANY TRAD
E DOING HERE?' HE ASKED PHLEGMATICALLY,
DESIGNATING THE VILLAGE IN HIS VAN BY A
WAVE OF THE BROADSHEET. AND THINKING THE
LABOURER DID NOT UNDERSTAND HIM, HE ADD
ED, 'ANYTHING IN THE HAY-TRUSSING LINE?'
THE TURNIP-HOER HAD ALREADY BEGUN SHAKI
NG HIS HEAD. 'WHY, SAVE THE MAN, WHAT WI
SDOM'S IN HIM THAT 'A SHOULD COME TO WEY
DON FOR A JOB OF THAT SORT THIS TIME O'
YEAR?' 'THEN IS THERE ANY HOUSE TO LET-A
LITTLE SMALL NEW COTTAGE JUST A BUILDED
, OR SUCH LIKE?' ASKED THE OTHER. THE PE
SSIMIST STILL MAINTAINED A NEGATIVE. 'PU
LLING DOWN IS MORE THE NATER OF WEYDON.
THERE WERE FIVE HOUSES CLEARED AWAY LAST
YEAR, AND THREE THIS; AND THE VOLK NOWH
ERE TO GO- NO, NOT SO MUCH AS A THATCHED
HURDLE; THAT'S THE WAY O' WEYDON-PRIORS
.' THE HAY-TRUSSER, WHICH HE OBVIOUSLY W
AS, NODDED WITH SOME SUPERCILIOUSNESS. L
OOKING TOWARDS THE VILLAGE, HE CONTINUED
, 'THERE IS SOMETHING GOING ON HERE, HOW
EVER, IS THERE NOT?' 'AY. 'TIS FAIR DAY.
THOUGH WHAT YOU HEAR NOW IS LITTLE MORE
THAN THE CLATTER AND SCURRY OF GETTING
AWAY THE MONEY O' CHILDREN AND FOOLS, FO
R THE REAL BUSINESS IS DONE EARLIER THAN
THIS. I'VE BEEN WORKING WITHIN SOUND O'
T ALL DAY, BUT I DIDN'T GO UP-NOT I. 'TW
AS NO BUSINESS OF MINE.' THE TRUSSER AND
HIS FAMILY PROCEEDED ON THEIR WAY, AND
SOON ENTERED THE FAIR-FIELD, WHICH SHOWE
D STANDING-PLACES AND PENS WHERE MANY HU
NDREDS OF HORSES AND SHEEP HAD BEEN EXHI
BITED AND SOLD IN THE FORENOON, BUT WERE
NOW IN GREAT PART TAKEN AWAY. AT PRESEN
T, AS THEIR INFORMANT HAD OBSERVED, BUT
LITTLE REAL BUSINESS REMAINED ON HAND, T
HE CHIEF BEING THE SALE BY AUCTION OF A
FEW INFERIOR ANIMALS, THAT COULD NOT OTH
ERWISE BE DISPOSED OF, AND HAD BEEN ABSO
LUTELY REFUSED BY THE BETTER CLASS OF TR
ADERS, WHO CAME AND WENT EARLY. YET THE
CROWD WAS DENSER NOW THAN DURING THE MOR
NING HOURS, THE FRIVOLOUS CONTINGENT OF
VISITORS, INCLUDING JOURNEYMEN OUT FOR A
HOLIDAY, A STRAY SOLDIER OR TWO COME ON
FURLOUGH, VILLAGE SHOPKEEPERS, AND THE
LIKE, HAVING LATTERLY FLOCKED IN; PERSON
S WHOSE ACTIVITIES FOUND A CONGENIAL FIE
LD AMONG THE PEEP-SHOWS, TOY-STANDS, WAX
WORKS, INSPIRED MONSTERS, DISINTERESTED
MEDICAL MEN WHO TRAVELLED FOR THE PUBLIC
GOOD, THIMBLE-RIGGERS, NICK-NACK VENDOR
S, AND READERS OF FATE. NEITHER OF OUR P
EDESTRIANS HAD MUCH HEART FOR THESE THIN
GS, AND THEY LOOKED AROUND FOR A REFRESH
MENT TENT AMONG THE MANY WHICH DOTTED TH
E DOWN. TWO, WHICH STOOD NEAREST TO THEM
IN THE OCHREOUS HAZE OF EXPIRING SUNLIG
HT, SEEMED ALMOST EQUALLY INVITING. ONE
WAS FORMED OF NEW, MILK-HUED CANVAS, AND
BORE RED FLAGS ON ITS SUMMIT; IT ANNOUN
CED 'GOOD HOME- BREWED BEER, ALE, AND CY
DER.' THE OTHER WAS LESS NEW; A LITTLE I
RON STOVE-PIPE CAME OUT OF IT AT THE BAC
K AND IN FRONT APPEARED THE PLACARD, 'GO
OD FURMITY SOLD HEAR.' THE MAN MENTALLY
WEIGHED THE TWO INSCRIPTIONS AND INCLINE
D TO THE FORMER TENT. 'NO-NO-THE OTHER O
NE,' SAID THE WOMAN. 'I ALWAYS LIKE FURM
ITY; AND SO DOES ELIZABETH-JANE; AND SO
WILL YOU. IT IS NOURISHING AFTER A LONG
HARD DAY.' 'I'VE NEVER TASTED IT,' SAID
THE MAN. HOWEVER, HE GAVE WAY TO HER REP
RESENTATIONS, AND THEY ENTERED THE FURMI
TY BOOTH FORTHWITH. A RATHER NUMEROUS CO
MPANY APPEARED WITHIN, SEATED AT THE LON
G NARROW TABLES THAT RAN DOWN THE TENT O
N EACH SIDE. AT THE UPPER END STOOD A ST
OVE, CONTAINING A CHARCOAL FIRE, OVER WH
ICH HUNG A LARGE THREE-LEGGED CROCK, SUF
FICIENTLY POLISHED ROUND THE RIM TO SHOW
THAT IT WAS MADE OF BELL- METAL. A HAGG
ISH CREATURE OF ABOUT FIFTY PRESIDED, IN
A WHITE APRON, WHICH AS IT THREW AN AIR
OF RESPECTABILITY OVER HER AS FAR AS IT
EXTENDED, WAS MADE SO WIDE AS TO REACH
NEARLY ROUND HER WAIST. SHE SLOWLY STIRR
ED THE CONTENTS OF THE POT. THE DULL SCR
APE OF HER LARGE SPOON WAS AUDIBLE THROU
GHOUT THE TENT AS SHE THUS KEPT FROM BUR
NING THE MIXTURE OF CORN IN THE GRAIN,

SEPTEMBER 15TH. THIS ARCHIPELAGO CONSIST
S OF TEN PRINCIPAL ISLANDS, OF WHICH FIV
E EXCEED THE OTHERS IN SIZE. THEY ARE SI
TUATED UNDER THE EQUATOR, AND BETWEEN FI
VE AND SIX HUNDRED MILES WESTWARD OF THE
COAST OF AMERICA. THEY ARE ALL FORMED O
F VOLCANIC ROCKS; A FEW FRAGMENTS OF GRA
NITE CURIOUSLY GLAZED AND ALTERED BY THE
HEAT, CAN HARDLY BE CONSIDERED AS AN EX
CEPTION. SOME OF THE CRATERS, SURMOUNTIN
G THE LARGER ISLANDS, ARE OF IMMENSE SIZ
E, AND THEY RISE TO A HEIGHT OF BETWEEN
THREE AND FOUR THOUSAND FEET. THEIR FLAN
KS ARE STUDDED BY INNUMERABLE SMALLER OR
IFICES. I SCARCELY HESITATE TO AFFIRM, T
HAT THERE MUST BE IN THE WHOLE ARCHIPELA
GO AT LEAST TWO THOUSAND CRATERS. THESE
CONSIST EITHER OF LAVA OR SCORIAE, OR OF
FINELY- STRATIFIED, SANDSTONE-LIKE TUFF
. MOST OF THE LATTER ARE BEAUTIFULLY SYM
METRICAL; THEY OWE THEIR ORIGIN TO ERUPT
IONS OF VOLCANIC MUD WITHOUT ANY LAVA: I
T IS A REMARKABLE CIRCUMSTANCE THAT EVER
Y ONE OF THE TWENTY-EIGHT TUFF-CRATERS W
HICH WERE EXAMINED, HAD THEIR SOUTHERN S
IDES EITHER MUCH LOWER THAN THE OTHER SI
DES, OR QUITE BROKEN DOWN AND REMOVED. A
S ALL THESE CRATERS APPARENTLY HAVE BEEN
FORMED WHEN STANDING IN THE SEA, AND AS
THE WAVES FROM THE TRADE WIND AND THE S
WELL FROM THE OPEN PACIFIC HERE UNITE TH
EIR FORCES ON THE SOUTHERN COASTS OF ALL
THE ISLANDS, THIS SINGULAR UNIFORMITY I
N THE BROKEN STATE OF THE CRATERS, COMPO
SED OF THE SOFT AND YIELDING TUFF, IS EA
SILY EXPLAINED. CONSIDERING THAT THESE I
SLANDS ARE PLACED DIRECTLY UNDER THE EQU
ATOR, THE CLIMATE IS FAR FROM BEING EXCE
SSIVELY HOT; THIS SEEMS CHIEFLY CAUSED B
Y THE SINGULARLY LOW TEMPERATURE OF THE
SURROUNDING WATER, BROUGHT HERE BY THE G
REAT SOUTHERN POLAR CURRENT. EXCEPTING D
URING ONE SHORT SEASON, VERY LITTLE RAIN
FALLS, AND EVEN THEN IT IS IRREGULAR; B
UT THE CLOUDS GENERALLY HANG LOW. HENCE,
WHILST THE LOWER PARTS OF THE ISLANDS A
RE VERY STERILE, THE UPPER PARTS, AT A H
EIGHT OF A THOUSAND FEET AND UPWARDS, PO
SSESS A DAMP CLIMATE AND A TOLERABLY LUX
URIANT VEGETATION. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TH
E CASE ON THE WINDWARD SIDES OF THE ISLA
NDS, WHICH FIRST RECEIVE AND CONDENSE TH
E MOISTURE FROM THE ATMOSPHERE. IN THE M
ORNING (17TH) WE LANDED ON CHATHAM ISLAN
D, WHICH, LIKE THE OTHERS, RISES WITH A
TAME AND ROUNDED OUTLINE, BROKEN HERE AN
D THERE BY SCATTERED HILLOCKS, THE REMAI
NS OF FORMER CRATERS. NOTHING COULD BE L
ESS INVITING THAN THE FIRST APPEARANCE.
A BROKEN FIELD OF BLACK BASALTIC LAVA, T
HROWN INTO THE MOST RUGGED WAVES, AND CR
OSSED BY GREAT FISSURES, IS EVERYWHERE C
OVERED BY STUNTED, SUN-BURNT BRUSHWOOD,
WHICH SHOWS LITTLE SIGNS OF LIFE. THE DR
Y AND PARCHED SURFACE, BEING HEATED BY T
HE NOON-DAY SUN, GAVE TO THE AIR A CLOSE
AND SULTRY FEELING, LIKE THAT FROM A ST
OVE: WE FANCIED EVEN THAT THE BUSHES SME
LT UNPLEASANTLY. ALTHOUGH I DILIGENTLY T
RIED TO COLLECT AS MANY PLANTS AS POSSIB
LE, I SUCCEEDED IN GETTING VERY FEW; AND
SUCH WRETCHED-LOOKING LITTLE WEEDS WOUL
D HAVE BETTER BECOME AN ARCTIC THAN AN E
QUATORIAL FLORA. THE BRUSHWOOD APPEARS,
FROM A SHORT DISTANCE, AS LEAFLESS AS OU
R TREES DURING WINTER; AND IT WAS SOME T
IME BEFORE I DISCOVERED THAT NOT ONLY AL
MOST EVERY PLANT WAS NOW IN FULL LEAF, B
UT THAT THE GREATER NUMBER WERE IN FLOWE
R. THE COMMONEST BUSH IS ONE OF THE EUPH
ORBIACEAE: AN ACACIA AND A GREAT ODD-LOO
KING CACTUS ARE THE ONLY TREES WHICH AFF
ORD ANY SHADE. AFTER THE SEASON OF HEAVY
RAINS, THE ISLANDS ARE SAID TO APPEAR F
OR A SHORT TIME PARTIALLY GREEN. THE VOL
CANIC ISLAND OF FERNANDO NORONHA, PLACED
IN MANY RESPECTS UNDER NEARLY SIMILAR C
ONDITIONS, IS THE ONLY OTHER COUNTRY WHE
RE I HAVE SEEN A VEGETATION AT ALL LIKE
THIS OF THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS. THE BEAGL
E SAILED ROUND CHATHAM ISLAND, AND ANCHO
RED IN SEVERAL BAYS. ONE NIGHT I SLEPT O
N SHORE ON A PART OF THE ISLAND, WHERE B
LACK TRUNCATED CONES WERE EXTRAORDINARIL
Y NUMEROUS: FROM ONE SMALL EMINENCE I CO
UNTED SIXTY OF THEM, ALL SURMOUNTED BY C
RATERS MORE OR LESS PERFECT. THE GREATER
NUMBER CONSISTED MERELY OF A RING OF RE
D SCORIAE OR SLAGS, CEMENTED TOGETHER: A
ND THEIR HEIGHT ABOVE THE PLAIN OF LAVA
WAS NOT MORE THAN FROM FIFTY TO A HUNDRE
D FEET; NONE HAD BEEN VERY LATELY ACTIVE
. THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THIS PART OF THE
ISLAND SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN PERMEATED, LI
KE A SIEVE, BY THE SUBTERRANEAN VAPOURS:
HERE AND THERE THE LAVA, WHILST SOFT, H
AS BEEN BLOWN INTO GREAT BUBBLES; AND IN
OTHER PARTS, THE TOPS OF CAVERNS SIMILA
RLY FORMED HAVE FALLEN IN, LEAVING CIRCU
LAR PITS WITH STEEP SIDES. FROM THE REGU
LAR FORM OF THE MANY CRATERS, THEY GAVE
TO THE COUNTRY AN ARTIFICIAL APPEARANCE,
WHICH VIVIDLY REMINDED ME OF THOSE PART
S OF STAFFORDSHIRE, WHERE THE GREAT IRON
-FOUNDRIES ARE MOST NUMEROUS. THE DAY WA
S GLOWING HOT, AND THE SCRAMBLING OVER T
HE ROUGH SURFACE AND THROUGH THE INTRICA
TE THICKETS, WAS VERY FATIGUING; BUT I W
AS WELL REPAID BY THE STRANGE CYCLOPEAN
SCENE. AS I WAS WALKING ALONG I MET TWO
LARGE TORTOISES, EACH OF WHICH MUST HAVE
WEIGHED AT LEAST TWO HUNDRED POUNDS: ON
E WAS EATING A PIECE OF CACTUS, AND AS I
APPROACHED, IT STARED AT ME AND SLOWLY
WALKED AWAY; THE OTHER GAVE A DEEP HISS,
AND DREW IN ITS HEAD. THESE HUGE REPTIL
ES, SURROUNDED BY THE BLACK LAVA, THE LE
AFLESS SHRUBS, AND LARGE CACTI, SEEMED T
O MY FANCY LIKE SOME ANTEDILUVIAN ANIMAL
S. THE FEW DULL- COLOURED BIRDS CARED NO
MORE FOR ME THAN THEY DID FOR THE GREAT
TORTOISES. SEPTEMBER 23RD. THE BEAGLE P
ROCEEDED TO CHARLES ISLAND. THIS ARCHIPE
LAGO HAS LONG BEEN FREQUENTED, FIRST BY
THE BUCANIERS, AND LATTERLY BY WHALERS,
BUT IT IS ONLY WITHIN THE LAST SIX YEARS
, THAT A SMALL COLONY HAS BEEN ESTABLISH
ED HERE. THE INHABITANTS ARE BETWEEN TWO
AND THREE HUNDRED IN NUMBER; THEY ARE N
EARLY ALL PEOPLE OF COLOUR, WHO HAVE BEE
N BANISHED FOR POLITICAL CRIMES FROM THE
REPUBLIC OF THE EQUATOR, OF WHICH QUITO
IS THE CAPITAL. THE SETTLEMENT IS PLACE
D ABOUT FOUR AND A HALF MILES INLAND, AN
D AT A HEIGHT PROBABLY OF A THOUSAND FEE
T. IN THE FIRST PART OF THE ROAD WE PASS
ED THROUGH LEAFLESS THICKETS, AS IN CHAT
HAM ISLAND. HIGHER UP, THE WOODS GRADUAL
LY BECAME GREENER; AND AS SOON AS WE CRO
SSED THE RIDGE OF THE ISLAND, WE WERE CO
OLED BY A FINE SOUTHERLY BREEZE, AND OUR
SIGHT REFRESHED BY A GREEN AND THRIVING
VEGETATION. IN THIS UPPER REGION COARSE
GRASSES AND FERNS ABOUND; BUT THERE ARE
NO TREE-FERNS: I SAW NOWHERE ANY MEMBER
OF THE PALM FAMILY, WHICH IS THE MORE S
INGULAR, AS 360 MILES NORTHWARD, COCOS I
SLAND TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE NUMBER OF
COCOA-NUTS. THE HOUSES ARE IRREGULARLY S
CATTERED OVER A FLAT SPACE OF GROUND, WH
ICH IS CULTIVATED WITH SWEET POTATOES AN
D BANANAS. IT WILL NOT EASILY BE IMAGINE
D HOW PLEASANT THE SIGHT OF BLACK MUD WA
S TO US, AFTER HAVING BEEN SO LONG, ACCU
STOMED TO THE PARCHED SOIL OF PERU AND N
ORTHERN CHILE. THE INHABITANTS, ALTHOUGH
COMPLAINING OF POVERTY, OBTAIN, WITHOUT
MUCH TROUBLE, THE MEANS OF SUBSISTENCE.
IN THE WOODS THERE ARE MANY WILD PIGS A
ND GOATS; BUT THE STAPLE ARTICLE OF ANIM
AL FOOD IS SUPPLIED BY THE TORTOISES. TH
EIR NUMBERS HAVE OF COURSE BEEN GREATLY
REDUCED IN THIS ISLAND, BUT THE PEOPLE Y
ET COUNT ON TWO DAYS' HUNTING GIVING THE
M FOOD FOR THE REST OF THE WEEK. IT IS S
AID THAT FORMERLY SINGLE VESSELS HAVE TA
KEN AWAY AS MANY AS SEVEN HUNDRED, AND T
HAT THE SHIP'S COMPANY OF A FRIGATE SOME
YEARS SINCE BROUGHT DOWN IN ONE DAY TWO
HUNDRED TORTOISES TO THE BEACH. SEPTEMB
ER 29TH. WE DOUBLED THE SOUTH-WEST EXTRE
MITY OF ALBEMARLE ISLAND, AND THE NEXT D
AY WERE NEARLY BECALMED BETWEEN IT AND N
ARBOROUGH ISLAND. BOTH ARE COVERED WITH
IMMENSE DELUGES OF BLACK NAKED LAVA, WHI
CH HAVE FLOWED EITHER OVER THE RIMS OF T
HE GREAT CALDRONS, LIKE PITCH OVER THE R
IM OF A POT IN WHICH IT HAS BEEN BOILED,
OR HAVE BURST FORTH FROM SMALLER ORIFIC
ES ON THE FLANKS; IN THEIR DESCENT THEY
HAVE SPREAD OVER MILES OF THE SEA-COAST.
ON BOTH OF THESE ISLANDS, ERUPTIONS ARE
KNOWN TO HAVE TAKEN PLACE; AND IN ALBEM
ARLE, WE SAW A SMALL JET OF SMOKE CURLIN
G FROM THE SUMMIT OF ONE OF THE GREAT CR
ATERS. IN THE EVENING WE ANCHORED IN BAN
K'S COVE, IN ALBEMARLE ISLAND. THE NEXT
MORNING I WENT OUT WALKING. TO THE SOUTH
OF THE BROKEN TUFF-CRATER, IN WHICH THE
BEAGLE WAS ANCHORED, THERE WAS ANOTHER
BEAUTIFULLY SYMMETRICAL ONE OF AN ELLIPT
IC FORM; ITS LONGER AXIS WAS A LITTLE LE
SS THAN A MILE, AND ITS DEPTH ABOUT 500
FEET. AT ITS BOTTOM THERE WAS A SHALLOW
LAKE, IN THE MIDDLE OF WHICH A TINY CRAT
ER FORMED AN ISLET. THE DAY WAS OVERPOWE
RINGLY HOT, AND THE LAKE LOOKED CLEAR AN
D BLUE: I HURRIED DOWN THE CINDERY SLOPE
, AND, CHOKED WITH DUST, EAGERLY TASTED
THE WATER BUT, TO MY SORROW, I FOUND IT
SALT AS BRINE. THE ROCKS ON THE COAST AB
OUNDED WITH GREAT BLACK LIZARDS, BETWEEN
THREE AND FOUR FEET LONG; AND ON THE HI
LLS, AN UGLY YELLOWISH-BROWN SPECIES WAS
EQUALLY COMMON. WE SAW MANY OF THIS LAT
TER KIND, SOME CLUMSILY RUNNING OUT OF T
HE WAY, AND OTHERS SHUFFLING INTO THEIR
BURROWS. I SHALL PRESENTLY DESCRIBE IN M
ORE DETAIL THE HABITS OF BOTH THESE REPT
ILES. THE WHOLE OF THIS NORTHERN PART OF
ALBEMARLE ISLAND IS MISERABLY STERILE.